People always ask where to eat in Central London as if there’s one answer that settles it.

There isn’t.

Some days you want a long lunch where nobody is looking at their watch. Other days you’re starving after walking around for six hours and you’d happily eat almost anywhere with an empty table. Mood changes things. So does the weather. A rainy Tuesday somehow calls for completely different food than a warm Saturday evening.

Anyway, these are nine places that have earned a good reputation for a reason. You might end up loving all of them. You might only click with two or three. That’s usually how London works.

Dishoom

It’s impossible to write a list like this without somebody bringing up Dishoom.

The first thing people mention is usually the queue.

They’re not exaggerating either.

Turn up at the wrong time and you could be waiting a while. Just depends on the day. You either accept that before you arrive or you book ahead and save yourself the hassle.

Once you’re inside though, it starts making sense.

The room always feels busy without becoming stressful. Tables are full, conversations are happening everywhere, plates keep appearing from the kitchen. It feels alive.

The food gets enough attention already so I won’t pretend I’m discovering something new by saying it’s good.

It is.

If you’ve never tried it, I’d just go.

Worst case, you decide it isn’t for you and move on. At least now you know when and why you shouldn’t believe the hype.

The Wolseley

A lot of visitors start with breakfast there, which makes sense.

Lunch gets busy too.

Actually, it’s usually busy whenever you walk past.

Plus, you’re close enough to wander around Mayfair afterwards without thinking too much about where to go next whether it’s one of the best RnB clubs in London or just a short walk before calling it a night. 

I’ve met people who order the same thing every visit. Then I’ve met people who refuse to repeat a dish.

Neither approach seems wrong.

Gymkhana

Gymkhana isn’t somewhere you accidentally end up.

Most people book because they’ve heard about it from somebody else.

The room isn’t huge and I quite like that. Big restaurants can sometimes feel noisy in a way that’s hard to explain. Gymkhana never really has that problem.

Service moves quickly but nobody makes you feel like you’re being rushed out the door.

That matters more than people think.

A good meal can feel very different if you’re constantly aware that someone wants your table back.

Barrafina

Barrafina is one of those places where you’ll probably change your mind halfway through ordering.

Something goes past.

You point at it.

“I’ll have that instead.”

Happens all the time.

Watching everything come together is part of the experience anyway. You end up watching plates go past and quietly wondering if you’ve ordered the wrong thing.

Pretty sure everyone does it.

Noble Rot

Some restaurants make you feel like dinner should be over in an hour.

Noble Rot isn’t one of them.

You sit down, order something, then before you know it you’ve been there far longer than you expected.

Not because the service is slow.

Just because nobody seems in a hurry.

Restaurants like that seem harder to find these days.

Maybe people appreciate them more because of it.

Bagatelle London

Bagatelle London feels different depending on what time you arrive.

Go earlier and it’s fairly relaxed.

Leave it a little later and the room starts changing. Tables get louder. Conversations overlap. As the evening goes on, the room changes without ever feeling too much.

Dinners there naturally carry on for another hour or two.

You order another drink. Somebody suggests dessert even though everyone said they were too full five minutes earlier. Nobody checks the time.

Those are usually the evenings you remember.

Rules

Rules has been doing things its own way for a long time now.

You notice it almost immediately.

Nothing feels like it’s chasing trends.

That could sound like criticism. And that would be wrong.

Truth is, restaurants don’t need reinventing every couple of years. You just need to make good food and people will come back over and over.

Bancone

Pasta is one of those foods that sound and look boring, but when it’s well-made, and not regular well-made, we’re talking professional well-made. Life-changing.

Bancone gets that part right.

The menu isn’t enormous either, which I appreciate. Huge menus always make me suspicious. I’d rather have fewer choices if the kitchen really knows what it’s doing.

I’ve ended up here on a random weekday before because another restaurant couldn’t fit us in.

Funny enough, nobody complained afterwards.

If anything, we were glad the first plan fell apart.

Sketch

Most people have already seen Sketch somewhere online before they walk through the door.

Usually because of the rooms.

Fair enough, they are pretty memorable.

The mistake would be thinking that’s the only reason to go.

Stay long enough and you stop paying attention to the décor anyway. It just becomes part of the background while you get on with lunch or dinner.

Which is probably a good sign.

A place can’t survive on photographs forever.

Picking One

This is the bit nobody can really answer for you.

Ask ten Londoners where to eat and you’ll come home with ten different lists.

Someone will swear Dishoom is the only answer.

Someone else will tell you it isn’t even in their top twenty.

Neither person is lying.

Food’s a strange thing. Company changes it. Your mood changes it. Sometimes you’re starving and everything tastes better because you’ve walked fifteen thousand steps already. Sometimes you’ve built a restaurant up in your head for weeks and it never quite reaches whatever version you imagined.

That happens.

I’d keep one booking, then leave another meal to chance.

Walk around a bit first. If somewhere looks good, go in. If not, keep walking.

I’ve had surprisingly good dinners that started exactly like that.. Walk around a bit. If somewhere looks busy for the right reasons, stop. If a place catches your eye, even better. I’ve had some of my favourite meals in London because the original plan fell apart at the last minute.

Doesn’t always work, obviously.

Sometimes you end up somewhere average.

It’s how life works.

Trying to find the single best restaurant in London is probably impossible anyway.

New ones open. Old favourites keep going. Every few months somebody declares they’ve found the “best” place in the city and a week later someone else completely disagrees.

That’s probably healthy.

One thing Central London has going for it is choice.

If dinner ends up being just alright, it’s hardly the end of the world. A short walk later and you’ll probably have passed another five places that looked worth trying. That’s one of the nicer things about eating around here.

Not necessarily better.

Just different.

And that’s usually enough reason to come back.