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Where to Eat in San Antonio: Tex-Mex, BBQ and the River Walk

Puffy tacos with ground beef, lettuce and cheese on a plate

If you are working out where to eat in San Antonio, start with Tex-Mex at Mi Tierra in Historic Market Square, puffy tacos at Ray’s Drive Inn on the West Side, barbecue at 2M Smokehouse, a riverside plate at Casa Rio on the River Walk, and an evening in the Pearl district. Together they cover the city’s past and present in a long weekend.

The city has the credentials to back it up. Visit San Antonio notes that it was named a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy in October 2017, one of only two in the United States. That recognition leans heavily on the Mexican and Tejano cooking that shapes daily eating here.

This guide groups the picks by neighbourhood, says what each place is known for, and flags which ones to check before you go.

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Key takeaways

  • San Antonio is one of only two UNESCO Creative Cities of Gastronomy in the US, designated in October 2017.
  • Mi Tierra, founded in 1941, anchors Historic Market Square with Tex-Mex, a bakery and mariachis.
  • Ray’s Drive Inn on the West Side calls itself the home of the original puffy taco.
  • 2M Smokehouse blends Texas barbecue with Mexican flavours and opens only a few days a week.
  • The Pearl, a former brewery, holds La Gloria, the Culinary Institute of America and its student-run restaurant, Savor.

San Antonio at a glance

Use this table to sketch your days. Opening days vary, so confirm each one on its official site before you set out.

PlaceAreaKnown forPlan ahead
Mi Tierra Café y PanaderíaHistoric Market SquareTex-Mex, pan dulce, mariachisWalk in
Ray’s Drive InnWest SidePuffy tacosCheck days before you go
2M SmokehouseSoutheast SideBrisket, Mexican-inspired sidesOpens only some days
Casa RioRiver Walk, downtownRiverside Tex-MexWalk in or reserve
La GloriaPearlInterior Mexican street foodWalk in
SavorPearlStudent-run dinners at the CIAReservations required

The food story runs deep. Visit San Antonio’s culinary heritage guide recalls the Chili Queens, who sold chili in the city’s plazas for roughly 60 years, and points to breakfast tacos, tamales and barbecue as everyday staples.

Historic Market Square and the West Side

Historic Market Square

Just west of downtown at 514 W Commerce Street, Historic Market Square has more than 100 locally owned shops selling everything from Mexican crafts to handmade leather goods, with working artists alongside the retailers. There is live entertainment nearly every weekend, which makes it a lively place to walk off a meal.

Mi Tierra Café y Panadería

Inside the Mercado at 218 Produce Row, Mi Tierra was founded in 1941 by Pete and Cruz Cortez as a three-table café for early-rising farmers and workers. It is now a city landmark with traditional Mexican plates, handmade margaritas, mariachis and a bakery counter. Visit San Antonio lists it as open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Order a Tex-Mex plate and leave with a box of pan dulce.

Restaurant tables and umbrellas along the San Antonio River Walk
Photo: San Antonio River Walk at night by Mikael Häggström, CC0

Ray’s Drive Inn

A short drive west, Ray’s Drive Inn bills itself as the home of the original puffy taco. Time Out places it at 822 SW 19th Street on the West Side and describes the taco as a fluffy, fried tortilla that is neither a soft Mexican tortilla nor an American hard shell. Order a mix of fillings such as picadillo and guacamole. It does not open every day, so check its site first.

A puffy taco is San Antonio in a single bite: fried, pillowy and not quite like anything else in Texas.

Plan Market Square and Ray’s as one outing. They sit on the same side of downtown, so a late breakfast at Mi Tierra, an hour in the shops and an early lunch of puffy tacos fit comfortably into a single morning. Bring an appetite and a little patience: both are popular with locals as well as visitors.

Barbecue on the Southeast Side

Texas barbecue gets a local accent at 2M Smokehouse, 2731 S. WW White Road. Pitmaster Esaul Ramos Jr. and his partner opened it in December 2016, and the MICHELIN Guide includes it in its selection of the best barbecue in Texas.

Service is counter-style, with meats cut and weighed to order. The guide singles out the juicy brisket and thick-sliced turkey breast with citrus-pepper seasoning, plus Mexican-inspired sides such as chicharrón macaroni, pickled nopales and street corn. It opens only a few days a week and service ends in the afternoon, so plan it as a lunch.

The River Walk

The River Walk is where most visitors eat first, and it is worth at least one meal for the setting alone. The trick is choosing a place with history rather than whatever table is nearest the water.

Treat it as a setting first and a food destination second. Walk a stretch before you choose, notice where the tables turn over quickly, and save your biggest appetite for the neighbourhood spots in this guide. A riverside margarita and a plate of enchiladas is the right order here, not a five-course blowout.

Casa Rio

At 430 E. Commerce Street, Casa Rio opened in 1946 and says it was the first restaurant to open on the River Walk. The menu is Tex-Mex, with tamales, enchiladas, chili, rice and beans, served right on the riverbank. Go at lunch or early evening for a calmer table.

Sliced smoked brisket on a barbecue tray
Photo: Pulled pork, brisket, baked beans and mac & cheese from Martin’s BBQ in Nashville, TN by Gatorfan252525, BY-SA 4.0

The Pearl district

North of downtown, Pearl is a former brewery turned into a culinary and cultural district, with chef-led restaurants, markets, live music and events. On autumn Wednesday evenings it also runs a night market, so check Pearl’s calendar for dates.

La Gloria

La Gloria, at 100 E Grayson Street, serves simple street foods inspired by interior Mexico. Chef Johnny Hernandez, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, built the menu around flavours from his travels across Mexico. It is casual and good for grazing through several small plates.

Pearl rewards a slow evening. Eat at La Gloria, walk the grounds, and finish with a drink or live music. The river path also links Pearl with downtown, so you can walk off dinner on the way back to your hotel.

Savor at the Culinary Institute of America

The CIA’s Texas campus sits at Pearl among restored 19th-century brewery buildings and includes a Latin Cuisines Kitchen. Its student-run restaurant, Savor, serves contemporary American dinners cooked by students under faculty supervision. Reservations are required, so book before you arrive.

How to plan your eating days

  1. Cluster by area. Pair Market Square with Ray’s on the West Side, and the Pearl with a River Walk stroll, since the river connects the two.
  2. Put barbecue at lunch. 2M’s short hours make it a midday stop.
  3. Book Savor early. It is the only pick here that requires a reservation.
  4. Check opening days. Several places close on at least one weekday.
  5. Leave room for the bakery. Mi Tierra’s pastry case is a fine breakfast the next morning.

More cities worth planning a trip around are in our city guides, and our guide to Tex-Mex classics explains what to order.

FAQ

What food is San Antonio known for?

Tex-Mex, puffy tacos, breakfast tacos, tamales and barbecue. Its Mexican and Tejano food culture helped earn its 2017 UNESCO City of Gastronomy designation.

Where did the puffy taco come from?

It is a San Antonio specialty, and Ray’s Drive Inn on the West Side calls itself the home of the original.

Is it worth eating on the River Walk?

Yes, for at least one meal. Choose somewhere with a story, such as Casa Rio, which dates from 1946, and eat the rest of the trip across the neighbourhoods.

Do I need reservations?

Mostly not. Savor at the Culinary Institute of America requires one, and Casa Rio takes them. The others work on a walk-in basis, though opening days vary.

Your first San Antonio food day

Start at Mi Tierra for breakfast, wander Market Square, drive to Ray’s for puffy tacos, then finish with an evening at the Pearl. Save 2M and Casa Rio for day two. Before you go, check the restaurant directory and read our food travel tips for the rest of the trip.

Featured photo: Shrimp and cheesy potato puffy tacos by T.Tseng, BY 2.0.

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